How to clean your shotgun

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How to clean your shotgun

Clean modern center rifle

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This doesn't mean that you spray CRC through the respective holes of one or the other barrel and then fire the weapon. Sounds incredible? I'd like a few dollars as the number of times I've heard that in the last ten years.

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I believe in this, as well as many other strange and wonderful cleaning theories, because many people who live in these theories tend to be good hunters and shooters and really want to take care of their equipment. First, you need to know what happens inside your barrel every time you pull the trigger.

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Some by-products of cartridge detonation deposited on the rifle (carbon, gunpowder residue / dirt) are the main culprits. There are some minor drawbacks, such as molybdenum scale, but these are usually easy to deal with in the steps listed below. But of all the types of dirt, the worst is copper. This is because the shell material of the shell adheres to the inside of the barrel when it passes through the bore. Jacket dirt can usually be seen with an orange or copper stripe running light with the rifle at the muzzle end of the rifle. But what you can't see is the copper dirt right in front of your rifle throat. The dirt in this area tends to be much more serious. It's easy to ignore this area because you can't see the jacket dirt build up here.

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All the jacket dirt is not easy to remove, and the longer it stays stationary, and if the weapon keeps shooting at the dirt left in the barrel after the last incomplete cleaning (we call it cannonball). The harder it is to remove the dirt. The only problem is that this contamination stays long enough that it can affect the accuracy of the rifle, but worst of all, it will shorten the barrel life by up to 70%, depending on the caliber.

The smaller the cartridge case and the faster the speed, the faster the scale will accumulate, but now in many cases í Over drilling and magnum shells are heavily copper contaminated and can keep their heads as high as many hot rod 22 shells.

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Equipment required to clean central fire rifle 1.

I prefer single s / s or safety coated cleaning stick. It must be the correct size to match the aperture being cleaned. To prove this, the rod can only clean a certain range of apertures (depending on the manufacturer). A 22 caliber rod will clean 22 to 243 apertures, and the next size rod will clean 25 to 6.5 and 270 apertures. In the next step, you will see that it is usually marked as 30 cal +.

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If you use a small rod to clean the hole you are cleaning, when you push it through the hole and slap it, you will bend the rod in the middle of it. As you can imagine, this is not desirable. So unfortunately, you won't be able to buy a 22 caliber rod to clean your entire gun stable.

2. For plug-in rifles, the barrel guide is very important, because it can correctly align the barrel with the barrel. It prevents the barrel from moving back and forth, eroding the bore and throat area. The hole guide is installed instead of the bolt, and the rod passes through the hole guide. It also prevents excess solvent from flowing back to the magazine well and the main screw hole to corrode and soften the wood action that is on the bed.

For semi-automatic rifles and lever or pump action, you are forced to clean from the muzzle end of your gun. This is your gun and you need to be very careful when cleaning, because you can easily damage the crown on your gun. If damaged, this is just the last message that a shell before it is sent in the second flight it's a few hundredths, because you can imagine that a small notch in your rifle crown can greatly affect a shell.

The only equipment available is a brass crown or muzzle guide. It's a cheaper option than having a gunner re crown your barrel.

3. There are many good quality brass spears and patches, and the price is cheap.

4. Bronze brush.

5. Copper solvent combined with old solvent and copper brush is a very important product, which can cause chemical reaction and melt copper dirt.

Different copper solvents are needed to clean molybdenum or stainless steel drums. Everybody's going to clean up the molybdenite bucket. Be careful, you need to make sure that the solvent you choose in a stainless steel barrel has no more than 1-3% ammonia in its composition. If not, it will etch out the free machining lead that is made in stainless steel barrels, making it very porous. After that, copper pollution will be much faster than normal.

6. JB cleaning cream (looks like Waikato mud)

7. Gun vise (it's a luxury, but it can save a lot of extra work.) There are many ways, but this is how I clean my rifle. I come from a shooting range and varminting background, so you may or may not clean up your old 308 or 270 this thoroughly. Experience tells me that this may require a cleaner environment than it is now.

Step 1 place the rifle in the vice, if any, remove the bolt and replace it with a hole guide.

Step 2: place a patch with solvent on the jag and pass it through the barrel once. Do not pull the same patch back from the barrel. Repeat the process.

Step 3 remove the scale, put your bronze brush on the rod, dip it in the solvent, and let the brush move back and forth in the bucket 30 times. Carefully push the lever to align it with the hole.

Step 4: remove the brush and install the jag on the cleaning rod, through two or three patches in the hole, until they are cleaned out of the barrel (Note: when you remove the copper brush from the rod and run it in hot water for 5-10 seconds, the solvent will erode the life of the copper brush, because the copper brush is also made of copper.)

Step 5: put two patches soaked in solvent through the hole (to make a cup of tea, mow the lawn, and earn brownie points in one way or another. Wait an hour or two.)

Step 7: wrap an old brush with a 4x2 cleaning cloth, cover it with JB cleaning paste, and then pass the brush through the barrel 20 times. If the dirt is serious, you can short stroke the brush in the problem area.

Step 8 replace the JB brush with jag and push the clean patches through the barrel until they are exposed. Put the brush with JB paste in the pipe or plastic bag. You will use it many times in the future.

Step 9: insert two solvent impregnated patches through the holes and repeat with clean patches until they are clean.

Step 10 continue to repeat steps 1-9 until the new solvent is left in the barrel for as long as possible, and then pass a clean patch through the barrel to reveal the color of the new solvent from the barrel without green / blue. Your bucket is now free of powder and copper.

Don't forget to clean the room. To do this, you need to remove the hole guide. Lightly oil the barrel before the next time. That's probably more than most deer rifles. But if you want to keep all varmint / target and magnum rifles firing with precision and maximize barrel life, that's what you should do.

Only you can decide the level of maintenance you are prepared to do, but you may have invested a lot of money in your rig, it's not so much work to significantly extend the life of the barrel.